Fashion

Unveiling the Legacy: Exploring the History of the Gucci Horsebit

An enduring accessory that has retained its timeless allure—the narrative of the Gucci Horsebit 1955 unfolds, turning the equestrian bit into an authentic emblem synonymous with the brand.

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Timeless, practical and suitable for all occasions. A bag that over time has become a masterpiece for the fashion system and with its style has managed to act as a bridge between different eras with elegance and style. We are talking about the Horsebit 1955 by Gucci, the result of careful research into design, the excellence of materials and connotations linked to the badges of the Italian brand. Designed for the first time in '55, the bag is characterised by the double ring clamp, the so-called Gucci "horsebit" invented by Aldo Gucci - son of Guccio Gucci - who in the same decade decided to decontextualize the bit of the riding bridle to use it as an identifying symbol of the Italian brand. Over the years the clamp has taken on more and more importance until it reached its own dimension on garments, footwear and accessories of the Seventies, in particular it was used as a closing detail on bags and as an ornamental element on shoes and moccasins.

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In the first photo: a shot from L'OFFICIEL Archive Issue 582 from 1971. In the second photo: a column from L'OFFICIEL Archive Issue 878 from 2003. In the third photo: a Gucci campaign from L'OFFICIEL Archive from 1995 issue 799.

With changes in Gucci's creative direction, the horsebit took on different dimensions and interpretations during the Tom Ford era, while during the years of Alessandro Michele the Gucci Horsebit 1955 took on more and more importance, capturing the attention of the entire fashion system. With the autumn winter 2023-24 fashion show presented by Studio Gucci (transition period between the creative direction of Michele and Sabato De Sarno) the Kering brand presented a revival of Horsebit Chain Bag, with the boldest version inspired by Tom Ford's 2000s.

GUCCI's Horsebit Chain in the editorial "The Smart Set" of L'OFFICIEL Italia The Fall Issue 2023

After Sabato De Sarno 's debut with his first spring summer 2024 show presented during Milan Fashion Week in September, Gucci presented a new version of the Gucci Horsebit 1955 bag designed with asymmetric lines and made of Demetra, an animal free material that combines quality, softness and durability with certified cotton or certified hemp and ECONYL® (material obtained from fishing nets, carpets and pre-consumer waste). The shoulder bag with the rectangular clamp is renewed by taking on a more asymmetric, courageous and contemporary shape; just like Billie Eilish , American singer and long-time friend of the brand who has become the face of the advertising campaign. For the occasion, Gucci also presented a series of short films accompanied by his song "What Was I Made For?".

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Billie Eilish's campaign and the new Gucci Horsebit 1955
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Billie Eilish presents the #GucciHorsebit1955 in Demetra, Gucci's innovative animal-free material

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