The Belgian designer's ingenuity merges with the Swedish brand's legacy in a collection that celebrates innovation, irony and the versatility of everyday wear. L'OFFICIEL Chile participated in the press conference where Glenn Martens and Ann-Sofie Johansson, creative advisor and global head of design at H&amp;M, shared details of the creative process and their vision behind this collaboration.

This coming October 30th, H&amp;M Chile launches its new collaboration with <a href="https://www.instagram.com/glennmartens/">Glenn Martens</a>, one of the most influential designers of recent years, both online and in-store at the Cenco Costanera Mall.
Since his time at Y/Project , which helped usher in the streetwear revolution by merging humor with contemporary fashion, Martens has established an aesthetic that, according to Ann-Sofie Johansson, &ldquo;was intriguing (&hellip;) and a little weird too. But weird in a good way (&hellip;), there was a beauty to that weirdness. You could see there was real craftsmanship behind it, a real artisan behind the pieces.&rdquo;
Later, at Diesel, he transformed denim into an object of global desire and, with his recent debut as creative director of Maison Margiela, he has managed to build a perfect formula between theatricality, classicism and irreverence.
The collaboration with H&amp;M, which began in the making almost two years ago, Johansson reveals, reinterprets essential wardrobe archetypes with a surreal and flexible approach.

<h3 style="text-align: left;">Glenn Martens</h3>
<h4 style="text-align: left;">Your collection began with research into the H&amp;M archive and its most iconic pieces. How did you choose the "archetypes" that served as your starting point?</h4>
Glenn Martens: I see the collection as a large family of garments, all with multiple purposes and personalities. Some are formal, others informal, some classic, others rebellious. I'm interested in the pieces we use in our daily lives, the ones we truly inhabit, because they're the ones that accumulate the most stories. I started by researching H&amp;M's bestsellers, the most beloved and classic pieces, to imagine how different people wear and reinterpret them. I wanted to design something fresh, something that reflects my identity as a designer but also the history of H&amp;M as a brand.
<h4 style="text-align: left;">This collection also speaks volumes to your own archive and your history as a designer. What role did your personal journey play in the process?</h4>
GM: It was a very emotional project. I spent over a decade at Y/Project, and as I left the brand last year, it felt right to celebrate that time. Many of the experimental twists and deconstructed techniques I developed there are present in this collection. It's, in a way, a swansong: a chance to breathe new life into those ideas and share them with a much wider audience.
<h4 style="text-align: left;">From your experience in haute couture and ready-to-wear, what does making fashion more affordable mean to you?</h4>
GM: It depends a lot&hellip; Every exercise in fashion has a different result. In a way, even haute couture can be accessible thanks to films, the social environment, and social media. It becomes accessible in the way people observe it and dream about it, like when you watch a movie: it's entertainment, and so it becomes accessible through the visual world that surrounds it. When we talk about usability or wearability, accessibility also has to do with that. For me, the most important thing is always to maintain a balance between price and design. Even if it's not the most affordable in theory, I think that balance is essential. I also think it's fundamental to always respect the customer. That's what I try to do at Diesel, which also doesn't have such high prices. For example, when you buy a Diesel T-shirt-which costs 70 or 80 euros, there's something there that has value, it's not just "nothing." You're not cheating the customer; they feel it. And that seems to me to be the most important thing. I probably didn't fully answer the question about affordability (laughs), but I think what I do here is also affordable because it has an interesting price point for very elaborate garments. It's not like a dress costs 50 euros-of course, that's more expensive, but there's a lot of thought behind it. I think the right word to define it is integrity.
<h4 style="text-align: left;">There's always a touch of humour and surrealism in your work. How does that translate here?</h4>
GM: Irony and humour are part of my DNA. In Belgium, we have a rather sarcastic outlook on life-perhaps because it rains all the time-and that's reflected in my work. I love that fashion is a serious art, but also something we can play with. That's why there are absurd elements, trompe-l'&oelig;il effects and playful winks in the garments.
<h4 style="text-align: left;">Many of the pieces are transformable, adaptable to your body and mood. What appeals to you about this versatility?</h4>
GM: I'm fascinated by the idea that a garment can change with the wearer. A blazer can be minimalist or become something more experimental, depending on how it's worn. I like to think that ready-to-wear can express the multiplicity of identities we all have.

<h3 style="text-align: left;">Ann-Sofie Johansson</h3>
<h4 style="text-align: left;">H&amp;M has a long history of collaborating with designers. What makes the Glenn Martens collaboration special?</h4>
Ann-Sofie Johansson: It's one of the most creative collaborations we've ever done. Glenn not only reviewed his own archive, but also ours. He took classic wardrobe archetypes-the trench coat, the shirt, denim- and transformed them with his ingenuity. It's a conversation between two intersecting histories.
<h4 style="text-align: left;">Which pieces would you highlight from the collection?</h4>
ASJ: I love the black handkerchief-hemmed coat and the adaptable trench coat, which can change shape with each wear. I also love the sheer strap top and the tweed blazer. Each piece has a blend of humour and sophistication that's very Glenn.
<h4 style="text-align: left;">There's a strong DIY (Do It Yourself) and self-expression component to this collaboration. Why was that important?</h4>
ASJ: Glenn deeply believes in a democratic fashion. Garments with moldable structures or wires allow each person to transform them according to their taste. It's a way of empowering the wearer, inviting them to play and take ownership of their look.
<h4 style="text-align: left;">Do you see any connections between this collection and past H&amp;M collaborations?</h4>
ASJ: Definitely. There's a dialogue with conceptual projects like those of Margiela and Comme des Gar&ccedil;ons. Glenn also reflects on wardrobe staples, but with a fresher, more humorous perspective.
You can purchase the Glenn Martens x H&amp;M collection from October 30 in Chile, both at <a href="http://hm.com">hm.com</a> and at the Mall Cenco Costanera store.

The Irony of Glenn Martens Arrives at H&M

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