The Rick Owens Spring/Summer 2026 collection was a bold experiment in paradox, as the designer declared he wanted to explore &quot;softness,&quot; but in a completely antagonistic and Owens-esque way.

Instead of the traditional fragility, Owenscorp&rsquo;s &ldquo;delicate cycle&rdquo; was translated into a dramatic underwater performance: models walked down a giant industrial staircase and waded through the shallow pool at the Palais de Tokyo, with the hems of their dresses, sheer material, dragging in the water. It was a powerful image, reinforced by the piercing gaze of the black irises that covered the whites of their eyes, making viewers think of refugees crossing borders or otherworldly creatures.
Despite tapping into one of the season's big trends-lingerie dressing and see-through-Rick Owens completely redefined the concept. Instead of being revealing, nudity was suppressed through layers of sheer chiffon. Softness peaked in delicate chiffon capes suspended from architectural anvils this time cast in metal-or through stocking tops and dresses with geometric seams that cut off the body. Owens admitted he used "delicate lines, see-through, and ribbons," but all were crafted from industrial nylon and leather, creating a stark contrast. It is this cold steel in beauty that Owens describes: "the clothes look delicate and beautiful, but there is a hardness in that beauty... In difficult historical times, resilience is paramount."

The collection had all the hallmarks of the uniform Owens had developed over three decades: sooty colours, muted high-quality fabrics, 1930s-inspired silhouettes and strangely exaggerated shoulders. The Old Hollywood glamour still shone through, even when it was made of industrial nylon. Flattering bomber jackets with puffed sleeves, cropped Dracula-collar blousons, minimalist low-rise tank dresses, and ultra-short trench coats with floor-sweeping trains all created impossible silhouettes. The resilience and determination were also reflected in the personal details: the fringed leather capes were a collaboration with the young designer Straytukay, and the rare print was a replica of Owens&rsquo;s childhood star chart. Despite the smoke, powerful water jets and terrifying sounds on the runway, this was considered one of Rick Owens' most beautiful and dignified shows in years, affirming the stature of the designer who was recently honoured with a retrospective exhibition.

Rick Owens SS26: Steel Strength & Soft Beauty

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