Fashion

Olivier Rousteing x Jean Paul Gaultier: the Haute Couture show 2022 2023

Olivier Rousteing has just presented his collection for Jean Paul Gaultier Haute couture autumn-winter 2022-2023 at Paris Fashion Week. On the program: cone bodices, sculptural pieces, trompe-l'oeil prints and tin cans sublimated into dresses or used as platform boots. While the great couturier Jean Paul Gaultier officially retired from the catwalks in January 2020, his house continues to invite other designers to reinterpret the codes. This season, after Glenn Martens, Rousteing arrives, currently artistic director of Balmain since 2011, who wanted to pay a sincere tribute to the one who has always inspired him

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The Jean Paul Gaultier Haute Couture Fall 2022 2023 fashion show opens with a part dedicated to menswear which, parading on a remix of "Black Skinhead" by Kanye West celebrates the famous 1994 show "Les Tatouages", the art of corsetry, Breton stripes but also many tin details that are part of the Maison's codes, the typical cone bustier, the famous pinstripe tuxedo jacket, with large volumes, worn under the corset in the shape of a human body, pincushion of exaggerated dimensions, which they even transform into a sweetheart neckline.

Also noteworthy is the marinière look in modeled glass (in this exhibition other glass creations were made, all or almost all made by the master glassmaker of the stained glass windows of Notre-Dame de Paris) on an aluminum skirt like a tin can, to reproduce the famous bottle of Jean Paul Gaultier's Le Male perfume . Another tribute is to Madonna dressed by Gaultier with pinstripe trousers with suspenders and bare breasts for the 1992 Amfar Gala, which today is worn in a dress version and with covered breasts in flesh-colored leather by Kim Kardashian, sitting in the front row with his daughter North.

There is also space for the themes of inclusion, with the two pregnant models who paraded together wearing the iconic cone bra, with their hands resting on their stomachs. An exit interpreted as a political declaration in favor of lesbians, who undergo medically assisted reproduction, a practice that the French parliament approved only last year.

Rousteing praised Gaultier's great craftsmanship and ability to have been a pioneer of freedom of expression: "Today we talk a lot about inclusiveness, about gender, we say that a man can dress as a woman and a woman can dress as a man, which be free to be whoever you want, without the judgment of society. Clearly he did this before all of us".

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Jean Paul Gaultier Haute Couture by Olivier Rousteing

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