Exploring Emerging Fashion Brands from Fashion Week
A round up of brands discovered during Fashion Week
3. PARADISE
On the occasion of the brand's 10th anniversary, 3.PARADIS presents the spring summer 2024 collection that describes the journey of dreams and the power of designing a life you love through the freedom and clarity of your purpose.
The collection is divided into four parts, each representing a key moment in the dream journey: the first part, "The Window of Opportunity", celebrates the limitless potential of the world and the opportunities that exist for those who are open to seeking them .
The second part, "I Believe I Can Fly", embraces the idea that anything is possible if you have the courage to believe in yourself.
The third part, "Shoot for the Stars", encourages people to take risks and be persistent in pursuing their passions to achieve their goal.
Finally, the fourth part, "Sky is the Limit", is a reminder to never give up and keep striving for success.
The collection also celebrates unity through a series of significant collaborations, including with shoemaker JM Weston, with artist Edgar Plans known for his lively, playful and colourful illustrations, with the Paris Saint-Germain Football Club and with Rimowa celebrating the 10th anniversary of 3.PARADIS with a collaboration of 10 exclusive bags in various sizes.
STEVEN PASSARO
“ Another Layer ” highlights the ever-evolving and transforming parts that make up everyone's true self. The collection blurs the lines between masculine and feminine, introducing tailored pieces designed for a female body shape. By embracing and celebrating these diverse elements, Steven Passaro redefines conventional notions of gender and empowers individuals to embrace the entire spectrum of self-expression. This collection celebrates the infinite possibilities that arise when we explore the art of layering, offering a wardrobe that shares these limitless opportunities.
Each garment tells a unique story, reflecting the complexity and individuality of today's individuals. Steven ingeniously integrates different layers and elements, allowing the wearer to effortlessly transform their look from one occasion to the next, seamlessly transitioning from casual to formal and from day to night.
Committed to the constant search for innovation and rethinking the fashion process, the brand has collaborated with Style3D, the 3D fashion solution that goes from the digitalisation of fabrics to the design and virtualisation of 3D fashion for the creation of four key couture looks in 3D. This unique collaboration highlights the brand's commitment to pushing boundaries and showcasing the creative possibilities that emerge from the fusion of fashion and technology, while improving the process to make the brand more sustainable by reducing the number of physical prototypes.
MEMBERS OF THE RAGE
Designed by Scott Ramon Seguro Mescudi, also known as Kid Cudi, Members Of The Rage is a ready-to-wear collection for outsiders around the world, designed in Los Angeles and Made In Italy.
The spring summer 2024 collection features blocks of bright colours, cosmic allusions and personal touches such as the manga prints made by the granddaughter creates urban uniforms for a utopian future.
Defined silhouettes emerge through a riot of prints and textures: baggy trousers, chunky shoes and a series of upsized outerwear and shirts establish the volumes and attitudes of a wardrobe that exudes a relaxed yet theatrical energy. Cargo and utility elements mix with contrasting shell suits, with new depths of craftsmanship and technique, from custom zippers and intricate tonal denim print to manga appliqué patches and hand-inlaid and embroidered mohair knitwear. The palette features shades of cobalt and vermilion, flooded with summer whites, earthy neutrals, stone-washed denim, pink and lime, bright graphic patches mix with metallic leathers and a series of MOTR graphics that blend the iconography of music and of sport, including the Members Of The Rage UFO logo created in collaboration with the Japanese designer Nigo.
Through flannel shirts, flowy bowling shirts and baggy jeans, the psychedelic world of AI-generated, artist-designed prints creates intense expressions of deep color and hypnotic journeys, from the hazy landscapes of apocalyptic skies and underwater worlds, to the nostalgia of the comics of the "House Party" press which is full of characters and stories. These characters come to life in a series of heroic ensembles, from baby pink patchwork pinstripe tailoring to a molded gray marl "bubble" hoodie to frayed varsity sweaters in a cheeky nod to Adam's Billy Madison (1995) Sandler.
CARLOTA BARRERA
Carlota Barrera draws attention to the beauty and value of manual labor as traditional Spanish craftsmanship and its value to emerging designers, industry and cultural heritage. With the support of the City of Madrid and the honor of winning the Madrid Capital of Fashion 2022 award, Barrera creates a platform for stylists, artisans and other industry professionals to promote dialogue, interdisciplinary collaborations and better craft education for future generations.
The tension between conformity and rebellion is the concept of Carlota Barrera's new spring summer 2024 collection "GENERATIONAL RELAY". After moving to Spain, Carlota Barrera embarks on a journey back to her place of origin and the 90s, the decade in which she was born. Marked by extremes, contradictions and the renewal of social codes and norms, the collection is based on the thoughts of reflection and freedom that marked the era. Road, asphalt and a mix of cultural, musical and urban influences such as Patti Smith and Kurt Cobain give shape to a collection that speaks of creative freedom, authenticity and fluidity.
The brand has collaborated with Ábatte, a company specialised in hand-weaving natural fibers located in an ancient monastery in Segovia, and with Estaños de Pedraza, the last tin workshop in Spain. Together, they created unique items, including denim shirts, accessories and appliqués, all designed by Carlota Barrera.
Credits:
Runway Pablo Zamora
Styling Ben Schofield
Production & Creative Film Direction Mañana
Film Direction Guillem Cruells
Graphic Design Querida
PALMER UK
PALMER-UK 's Spring Summer 2024 campaign shots clearly captured the youthful energy of working-class teenagers who need to have fun while growing up in a small seaside town in Britain.
This season PALMER-UK has encapsulated versatile and wearable silhouettes in a collection of modern menswear. Starting from menswear classics like Polos, button-up shirts, hooded tracksuits and British Army dungarees, he reworked the pieces for the modern youth by adding subtle feminine details and making the fit more oversized.
A bright and playful colour palette featuring graphics designed by local artist Dean Humphries, conveying a sense of nostalgia for the 90s era and kids from the UK. Branding also makes a confident statement this season, with numerous variations of the PALMER logos but with added touches of graphic hearts and flowers.
Credits:
Creative Direction by WILLIAM PALMER
Photography by ALEX RADUAN
Make up by NIC MARILYN
JIAWEI HAN
Jiawei Han , a young designer and student at the Institut Français de la Mode, presented a series of creative looks during Paris Fashion Week, including a coat made with hundreds of cigarette butts, some even collected from the street.
A coat with a symbolic but also socially useful value, this operation pushes the discussion on reuse to the extreme, demonstrating how with creativity even fashion can transform one of the symbols of pollution into something useful.
Another look from the collection that attracted attention is a "formal" suit, consisting of a double-breasted jacket, trousers, tie and loafers, in a rubbery texture that recreates the silhouette of a bodybuilder.
SETCHU
Satoshi Kuwata , designer of the brand, is the winner of the LVMH Prize 2023. His collections place the center of attention on the formal gestures of ceremonies, deeply rooted in Japanese culture.
The traditional Tatami mats create the set of the new spring summer 2024 collection. The different garments, functional but timeless, were shown in the folding process as if they were origami, Satoshi Kuwata's favorite game during his childhood. The structure of the collection is built starting from two dimensions, and then developed in 3D through a process of draping on the body. Materials such as cotton, linen, wool, silk cadi and leather are assembled through buttons, as decorative ideas that contribute to character.
MORDECAI
Born from an organic economic and commercial synergy between some of the main players in the sector, Mordecai debuts with a transversal collection for spring summer 2024. The brand presents a complete and versatile streetwear wardrobe divided into three phases: from essential garments to more bold and conceptual. Combinations of lightweight cotton and parachute nylon outerwear, merino, mohair and cashmere knitwear, waxed poplin shirts and jackets, washed canvas cargo, jersey and fully patterned socks layer effortlessly into stark yet open ensembles.
Founded in Milan by creative director Ludovico Bruno (formerly Head of Design of Ambush , Head of Design of Moncler Genius and Senior Designer of Moncler Gamme Rouge by Thom Browne and Moncler Gamme Rouge by Giambattista Valli), the project aims to revitalize the panorama of menswear beyond traditional dogmas and seasonal structures. With a silhouette-oriented approach, Bruno applies the codes of technical sportswear to washed canvas, fine wool and matte nylon: lightweight and versatile garments that make use of functional details and sophisticated construction. Most of the collection is produced in Italy by Hostage.
The collection's 20 distinct and layered looks push the boundaries of function and form with accessible intent. The shapes of men's wardrobe essentials such as the hoodie and buttoned jacket, military cargo and martial arts-inspired kimonos are transformed thanks to adjustable drawstrings, reversible elements, pleats and down padding. The result is an unprecedented piece, bordering on recognisable style but inhabiting entirely new territory – a new canon of modern menswear informed by bodies, comfort and technique rather than trends, content and brands.
MARCELLO PIPITONE
Marcello Pipitone , a young and talented designer proudly originally from Bonola in the province of Milan, launched his first METROPOLI collection on the occasion of the last Milan Men's Fashion Week.
Marcello Pipitone decomposes and recomposes the material by comparing it with the city of Milan: elements of the subway, manholes, doors and railings decompose and recompose into textures that become images for his first collection. The central theme in the collection are the elements of street art understood as social expression and the world of sport understood as social redemption of the suburbs.
BURC AKYOL
Exceptionally made clothes, an almost couture experience for everyone: wearing Burc Akyol looks means standing out with elegance and being confident. Akyol , after graduating from the Institut Français de la Mode in Paris, launched his own brand in 2019.
Inspired by the people he meets, the myths of the places he travels, moments of beauty and bliss, and the legacy of high fashion, the designer focuses on essential pieces embellished with see-through details in silk and black satin. Attentive to environmental issues, the brand creates its clothes in France and Italy, where the materials are purchased for their beauty and long-lasting quality.
DO ™ by Domenico Orefice
The DO™ brand debuted at Pitti Immagine Uomo 104.
DO™, the brand founded by designer Domenico Orefice, debuted during the Pitti Uomo 104 edition. DO ™ is a dual universe, composed of two worlds that coexist in a complementary and functional way for each other , cancelling the tangible world and the virtual world. This duality does not imply an intrinsic harmony that is expressed as a distinctive feature in every element of the brand. Among the brand's values are respect for the planet and inclusiveness.
The collection is a hybrid dimension where sportswear and innovation, tailoring and craftsmanship intersect and contaminate each other without limits; a celebration of Made in Italy characterized by a contemporary and placeless aesthetic code.
Innovation, high quality and uniqueness are guaranteed thanks to the collaboration with some Italian companies in the sector including Polimoda, Gruppo Florence, Gruppo Cinque, Manfredini srl and Backdoor.
