Thanks to the collaboration with Clare Hunter, art historian and author of an original biography of Mary Stuart, Maria Grazia Chiuri takes us to Scotland for the Dior Cruise 2025, bringing to light the link between Monsieur Dior, the highlands and the charm of style Tudor.

Dior Cruise 2025 photo by Getty Images

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 The <a href="https://www.lofficielibiza.com/fashion/rosalia-new-global-ambassador-bag-lady-dior-photo" target="_blank" rel="noopener">Dior</a> Cruise 2025 collection was paraded today in the Drummond gardens in Scotland , about 15 kilometers from the Gleneagles hotel in the heart of the Scottish countryside so loved by Monsieur Dior, who in 1955 presented his collections in the ballroom of that hotel.
 The presentation of the Cruise collection is, for <a href="https://www.lofficielibiza.com/portraits/maria-grazia-chiuri-creative-director-dior-interview-feminism" target="_blank" rel="noopener">Maria Grazia Chiuri</a> , the opportunity to follow in the footsteps of <a href="https://www.lofficielibiza.com/beauty/peter-philips-how-to-reproduce-the-beauty-from-the-christian-dior-haute-couture-show" target="_blank" rel="noopener">Christian Dior</a> in the many places in the world where he presented his work, in this case in a narrative frame in which experiences, memories, suggestions take shape, thanks to the use of symbolic materials, fabrics and embroidery.
 The unicorn, the thistle, symbols of Scotland, are inserted into a new declination of the wildflower motif and part of Mary Stuart's style which emerges in Clare Hunter's story: Embroidering Her Truth: Mary, Queen of Scots and the Language of Power . Art historian Hunter, with whom Maria Grazia has collaborated since 2020, has highlighted with her work the meaning and purpose of embroidery as a means of communication for women throughout history. Patterns and colours, compositions and symbols of the collection are a tribute to the resilience and wit of the historical figure of Mary Stuart and to the author who tells her story today. " In the collection there is no real specific reference to the class of Maria Stuarda Ceto, we studied her history, observed paintings but we concentrated on her aesthetics. We highlighted the political interpretation of Maria Stuarda's embroideries, it is important remember that she used embroidery as a tool of expressive freedom" declares Maria Grazia Chiuri.
 Then there is tartan: " The only fabric that manages to resist fashion " will write Dior in The Little Dictionary of Fashion . A symbolic fabric of this land, with many colour combinations and meanings of belonging, a symbolic garment in the history of fashion : from romantic to punk to the present day. " I worked on the kilt as a drape of fabric placed on the body...this idea took shape to create clothes as if they were blankets draped over the silhouette " says the designer. 
 The photographic images of the Dior Spring Summer 1955 presentation become prints or are applied, on the edge of the kilt or pea coat, and are inside the garments for a dive into the past. The outfits are made with contrasting fabrics, where different material consistencies coexist in harmony, as in the case of velvet and lace. The silhouettes have wide sleeves than in white shirts, with small dresses with gathered skirts and shiny bibs with embroidery underneath: tone on tone or dark, lunar and brilliant, studded with pearls. Tartan, even in very light fabric, is a common thread and homage for the kilts, those made directly in Scotland and the dress version. Then dresses of different lengths and jackets, coats or capes with large hoods, with rain boots as a recurring shoe model, or cuissardes with maxi buckles. Mini armor embroidered with braided leather gloves, culottes, argyle socks and boots for the warrior princess rather than for the noblewoman. The Bar jacket has black velvet toggles, velvet which is also present in the princely dress with bustier and full skirt. Almost transparent, the long evening dresses in shimmering mesh with lilac lace bodices (perhaps a reference to the colour of the thistle bud).
 The embroidery of a map of Scotland, a sort of device for moving freely along mental trajectories, produces on some creations in the collection a cartography of the collaborations and cultural encounters conceived and created specifically for this fashion show. " Cross-stitch embroidery inspired by Scottish culture but also references to English embroidery, I wanted to give embroidery an idea that was not too luxurious, but a little wild, to safeguard the romantic aspect of this country. At Dior they just make me do what they want I want and I'm happy. I like collaborating with artisans, working with artists and supporting the embroidery school...this is one of the fundamental motivations that Dior allows me to do important and profound things, and this makes me very happy" explains Maria Grazia Chiuri.
 To collect the legacy of Mary Stuart, whose life was spent between France and Scotland, Maria Grazia Chiuri also commissioned the artist Pollyanna Johnson to create a contemporary portrait. Who knows if Princess Margaret would have liked this collection? Margaret was not only an admirer of Dior's work but also a loyal customer, who flocked to meet Christian Dior every time the designer organized an event in Great Britain. For her 21st birthday, she commissioned Monsieur Dior to design her dress. The photo of the princess dressed in Dior, sitting on the velvet sofa, taken by Cecil Beaton, is history. "Christian Dior and Princess Margaret organized a charity event for the Red Cross in 1955. Their friendship was fundamental to the welcome that Dior received in England, a country and culture that has always fascinated him" continues Maria Grazia Chiuri. On the other hand, the link with everything British is part of the stylist's tastes who will declare: " There is no other country in the world, other than mine, whose lifestyle I like so much. I love English traditions, English courtesy, English architecture. I even love English cuisine." 
 Fun fact: the procession of girls in their delicate evening dresses of that famous 1955 presentation was followed by the dancing pirouettes of elegant Scottish gentlemen in their kilts who enchanted the great designer, as he would write in his autobiography Christian Dior , Dior by Dior , published a year before his death in 1956. And tonight too the show ended with a show featuring bagpipes and kilts. 
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Maria Grazia Chiuri takes us to Scotland for Dior Cruise 2025

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