The artistic director of the House delivers a show that is more personal than ever, the details of which are a tribute to his hometown Bordeaux.

"As we always do, my team and I began preparing for this collection by combing through <a href="https://www.lofficielibiza.com/fashion/balmain-s-ss24-showcase-a-parisian-elegance-extravaganza" target="_blank" rel="noopener">Balmain</a>'s extensive archives. We all agreed: after highlighting Mr. Balmain's beloved rose during our spring show, it seemed only natural to continue emphasizing our founder's green thumb and build our fall designs based on his unique story of incorporating the fruits of his numerous gardens in her couture creations.

But as soon as I started drawing, I started injecting more and more of my own story into this parade. For example, instead of Mr. Balmain 's familiar embellishments (apples, nuts and strawberries), I went for prints, embroidery and 3D depictions of bunches of grapes, the symbol of my hometown's most famous product, Bordeaux.

In reality, it was only right to change our plans slightly and look for other inspiration in the southwest. After several collections evoking the beauty of my current home, Paris, and a series of presentations channeling the spirit, craftsmanship and extraordinary designs of my biological parents' Africa, I return today to <a href="https://www.lofficielibiza.com/travel/firstname-un-hotel-feel-good-in-bordeaux" target="_blank" rel="noopener">Bordeaux</a> , the city that trained me.

Sure, I might be a little biased, but I believe that the town of my childhood is one of the most beautiful cities in Europe. The two adjectives that we French tend to associate with Bordeaux are "classic" and "elegant", because the provincial capital is distinguished by a singular refinement. So this season combines the bold architectural lines and precise cuts of Pierre Balmain 's "New French Style" with the graceful dignity of Bordeaux, resulting in a collection that I believe reflects the timeless style of French women of all ages who have the sense of humor.

Beyond its famous allure, Bordeaux has a lot of rain. This is why the trench coat is an essential element of any Bordeaux wardrobe. My team and I played with the many possibilities of this classic piece, updating the familiar lines of some of Pierre Balmain's most famous trench coats and extending this recognizable style to a range of skirts, dresses, pants and short jackets. And since I generally associate the trench coat with the outdoor market scenes I witnessed daily as a child, I accessorised my designs with an array of new takes on traditional French shopping bags, converting styles from rope, basket and wicker market in some surprising and unexpected luxury offerings.

On days when it doesn't rain, the enviable combination of the southern sun and the mild climate of Bordeaux allows you to enjoy incredible weather. Some of my best memories are of end-of-season picnics with family and friends. To evoke these moments, we turned to the Vichy print dear to Mr. Balmain and, as he was wont to do, we exploded this pattern to unexpected proportions. After adding our fruit clusters to the mix and creating an embroidered green viscose thread coat that evokes an idyllic park, we managed to reference all the ingredients needed for the ideal Balmain picnic.

And there is one additional element that I will always associate with the grapes, cuisine and gardens of Bordeaux: the magnificent snails. My team and I found several unexpected ways to incorporate the fascinating spirals of the snail shell into this collection, including rolled stitching, a gold-tone metal bib, and a wide array of buttons, jewellery, and accessories. shell inspired ornaments.
Throughout today's show, Atelier Balmain artisans showcased their mastery of traditional Parisian couture techniques, with impressive drapes, perfect pleats, stunning embellishments and skillful leatherwork . To fully appreciate their fineness, I suggest taking the time to examine them closely, as what may appear at first glance to be a pattern, print or cross-stitch, can turn out to be a remarkable beaded creation. Furthermore, we have continued to combine the historical know-how of this house with innovative techniques and materials, while calling on talented artists to create exceptional pieces, such as a gold metal breastplate in the shape of a shell. "snail or a pair of hands clutching a bouquet." &mdash; Olivier Rousteing.

Credits: Balmain

Olivier Rousteing’s homage to Bordeaux at Balmain Autumn-Winter 2024

Olivier Rousteing’s homage to Bordeaux at Balmain Autumn-Winter 2024

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