Although this was not always the case, it is a reality that the women&#39;s fashion industry is largely run by men. But things are changing. That&#39;s why it&#39;s no coincidence that several exhibitions celebrate women designers, such as the annual show of the Costume Institute of the Metropolitan Museum of New York.

The 1920s and 1930s were a time when women designers shone &mdash; including <a href="https://www.lofficielibiza.com/culture/coco-chanel-and-igor-stravinsky-a-mysterious-love-story" target="_blank" rel="noopener">Coco Chanel</a>, Elsa Schiaparelli, Jeanne Lanvin, Madame Gr&egrave;s, and Madeleine Vionnet &mdash; and a prosperous period when women ran their own maisons far outnumbered men. . But this came to an end with the Second World War and, during the postwar period, few financiers were willing to invest in dressmakers. Thus, creators such as <a href="https://www.lofficielibiza.com/fashion/dior-womens-show-autumn-winter-2023-24-collection-photo-look" target="_blank" rel="noopener">Christian Dior</a>, Givenchy, Balenciaga, <a href="https://www.lofficielibiza.com/fashion/balmain-womens-show-autumn-winter-2023-2024-collection-photo-look-video" target="_blank" rel="noopener">Balmain</a>, Cardin or Jaques Fath among others, took the place of his female colleagues (with the exception of CHANEL).
Things have certainly changed since then. Today there are women creative directors: at Dior (Maria Grazia Chiuri), Herm&egrave;s (Nad&eacute;ge Cybulski), Alexander McQueen (Sarah Burton) and CHANEL (Virginie Viard). <a href="https://www.lofficielibiza.com/fashion/fashion-show-stella-mccartney-woman-autumn-winter-2023-2024-images-look-collection" target="_blank" rel="noopener">Stella McCartney</a> is at the head of one of the most successful brands of the moment and the return of Phoebe Philo, announced for this year, is awaited with enormous anticipation. Even so, the artistic direction of the brands of the large luxury groups such as LVMH and Kering continue to be in the hands of men.

Gaby Aghion in the Alexandria desert, 1945. Photo Raymond Aghion, courtesy Philippe Agion and Chloe Archives, Paris.

Spring-Summer 1960 Fashion Show at Brasserie Lipp, November 1959. Courtesy Arhivo Chloé.

Autumn-Winter 1958 Fashion Show, Brasserie Lipp, Paris. Courtesy Chloé Archive.

The battle is far from won. That is why the exhibition Women dressing Women (Women dressing women) that the Costume Institute of the Metropolitan Museum of New York will open on December 7, It is particularly important because it not only recalls the work of famous dressmakers, but also rescues from oblivion many others whose names and works we do not know. And he even repairs injustices: he reports that the Delfos dress that made Mariano Fortuny famous in the 1920s is actually a creation of his wife Henriette Negrin Fortuny, which he himself privately admitted.
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The celebration of these women seems to be &mdash; as the French expression says &mdash; en l'air du temps, since other museums have also taken the same path. One of them is the Winterthur museum in Delaware, United States, which has been offering the Ann Lowe: American Couturier exhibition since September 9. The show presents forty models by the designer, including the copy of Jackie Kennedy's wedding dress (1953) that she made. Lowe was the favorite dressmaker of American high society from the 1920s to the 1960s, yet she remains virtually ignored by the general public.
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Ann Lowe with set in line A Ebony Magazine, 1966. Courtesy Johnson Publishing Company/Smithsonian Institute.

Reproduction of Jacqueline Bouvier Kennedy's wedding dress. The original is in the John Kennedy Library Winterthur Museum, Garden & Library.

Evening dress by French Madeleine Maltazos (1900-1985) and Suzy Carpenter (1935-1957). Late 1940s. Photo: Anne Marie Kellen ©The Metropolitan Museim of Art.

For its part, the Jewish Museum in New York is offering the Gaby Aghion and the House of Chloé exhibition, dedicated to Gaby Aghion (1921-2014), the founder of the Chloé house , starting on October 13. The exhibition covers her life from her childhood and youth in Egypt and highlights the vision of this creator who freed the body of women from the attitudes and formal styles of her time, proposing the elegance, simplicity and comfort that have embodied the Parisian style ever since. . And by the way, Chloé has a long tradition of creative directors like Martine Sitbon, Stella McCartney, Phoebe Philo, Clare Waight Keller, Natacha Ramsay-Levi and currently Gabriela Hearst. The trend to vindicate the work of designers from all eras is also manifested in Paris, where the Museum of Decorative Arts in Paris announces for November an exhibition dedicated to Iris van Herpen , a revolutionary creator, at the forefront of fashion.

Women designers: know everything about the exhibition "Women dressing women"

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